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A. We have a spine weight chart on our website that determines spine weight based on the combination of the weight of your bow and your draw length from back of point to the deepest part of the throat of the nock. If you find that you are in between 2 different sizes, remember that it is better to go with a slightly heavier spine than too light on a spine weight.
A. All shaft spine weights are based on a 28 inch shaft. For cutting to your personal draw length you will need to deduct 5 lbs. (1 spine weight increment lower) for every inch cut off below 28 inches. For every inch above 28 you will need to add 5 lbs or 1 spine weight increment per inch. (The spine chart represents this accordingly, this information is helpful if you are planning on shooting longer arrows, then your normal draw length.)
A. In reviewing their charts and comparing them with ours, the charts are identical. The same standard of adding and subtracting 1 spine weight or 5 lbs per inch applies so the charts end up being exactly the same. The 28 inch center has been used in this company for over 70 years and has been very accurate.
A. You will need to add 5 lbs to your spine weight for the heavier heads or increase 1 spine weight range. For 190 grain broadheads you will want to add 10 lbs or 2 spine weight ranges.
A. Spine testers are very difficult to calibrate- We get quite a few calls with this problem and I can assure you we work very hard to keep our spine testing equipment accurate. Sometimes it can take a team of professionals weeks to get a new machine right, checking it constantly against other spine machines and hand spines. We have a wide range of shafts to work with in all spine ranges and 3 diameters and the readings have to be consistent on all of them before the machine is approved for factory use. And then it is still tested regularly. and it is impossible to calibrate a tester without having spines available that are known to compare your results too in order to make the necessary adjustments that the machine needs to be accurate.
A. Most archery dealers will have a stick with measurements on it to determine your correct draw length at full draw. At full draw, your arrow should be fitted on the bow string, the shaft should rest against the bow and the point itself should clear the back (farthest part away from you) of the bow. Arrow Draw length is measured from the back of the point (BOP) to the deepest part of the throat of the nock (bowstring placement in the nock). Please note: this is not attempting to pull the string back as far as you can, this is normal, comfortable shooting stance as if you are aiming and shooting at an actual target.
A. The grain weight of a shaft can vary up to 100 grains within a 5 pound increment spine weight. Some people feel that this can cause a large degree of variance in the way the arrows shoot from a bow. Grain weighing the shafts to plus or minus 10 grains will put each shaft in an order of a dozen within 20 grains of each other, ensuring that you have a much closer match on a dozen arrows for more consistent flight.
A. Your arrow spine weight is too light/weak for your bow.
A. Your arrow spine weight is too heavy for your bow.
A. Check your nock placement position on your bow string when shooting your arrows. Nocking your arrow too high or too low on the string will cause the wobbly spin.
A. NO, left-wing feathers will work just as well for a left-handed person as a right-handed person and vice versa.
A. We have bragging rights on this one! All of our shafts are good quality. Shafts that are not good quality are doweled down to smaller sizes until they are good quality or thrown out as garden stakes, kindling or sawdust. We pride ourselves in our use of all raw materials, none is wasted. All shafts are hand graded for quality and special care is taken to ensure straightness, grain consistency, accurate spines, correct moisture levels (dryness of shafts), and each shaft is checked for nicks, splits and flat spots. "From Logs To Arrows" page walks you through the entire process of making an arrow shaft. We make a relatively small number of select shafts per year, shafts that have a slightly lesser quality of grain is the only difference, these are only sold to distributors and as Hunter Select Finished Arrows.
A. See our arrow comparison page for detailed information or read answer # 10 above, other than the Selects the differences are in finishing preferences and options only.
A. No, we only sell premium quality bare shafts. Any shafts that do not pass for premium quality are sent back to be redoweled. See question # 10 above. We do have a slightly lower quality shaft on our Hunter Select finished arrows but the difference is only in the straightness of the grain, so primarily in looks, the entire shaft is color lacquered and the arrows shoot great.
A. Not recommended. Fletching and nock glue is specially designed for attaching feathers and nocks to wood shafts and to hold during arrow flight. Ferr-L-Tite hot melt glue is specifically designed for attaching metal to wood and it can be reheated to remove the point and attach a new point or head to your arrow.
A. We recommend that you do some research on your finishing options. A water proof sealing finish is suggested, your glues, paints, lacquers, thinners and any other finishing products will all need to be compatible with each other for application and assembly. Some companies design their products to work only with their own line of products and are not always compatible with others. The finishing products listed on our Lacquer page are all compatible with each other.
A. Our president/CEO determined that the tapering process drastically weakens the shaft and the tapering accomplish anything. It seems to be only a trendy look.